Hotel Caruso Belvedere

Upon arrival to the Orient Express Hotel Caruso Belvedere in Ravello, a hotel meticulously restored from an 11th century palace overlooking the Amalfi Coast, you can't help but feel like royalty.  If not royalty, then at the very least one might feel that the indulgent desire that took over when booking the hotel was totally on point!

For us, stepping out of our car was like stepping into the past, into a simpler time filled only with the sound of the breeze rustling through the lemon groves.  And as that breeze fills your senses with the sweet scent of jasmine, you undoubtedly get the feeling that this place essentially hasn't changed in centuries.  "Belvedere" itself got its start in 1893 when vineyard owner, Pantaleone Caruso, rented out 5 rooms in the palace, calling them "Belvedere" or "beautiful view".  When the Orient Express restored the full palace in 2005, keeping Belvedere front and center was certainly a nice touch.

Courtesy of mymotels.com

Before we had too much time to stand in awe at Caruso's entrance on Piazza San Giovanni del Toro, we were greeted by a concierge who ushered us inside, graciously serving us fresh lemonade and encouraging us to enjoy the view as he organized our paperwork.  Before we knew it, our bags were on their way to our room and we were whisked away by the same concierge for our personal tour of the hotel grounds.

Wowing us first was the cocktail bar area, which had a separate piano room with the most dazzling chandelier and original fresco on the ceiling.

Courtesy of Roberto Bonardi

Rounding the corner, you turn your focus through the Norman archways and to the spectacular views of the sparkly Gulf of Salerno 1,200 ft below.

Courtesy of holidaycheck.com

We were then escorted through to the lush terrace gardens which lead to the infinity pool and Poolside Bar and Restaurant.

I first got the urge to stay at this hotel after I read an article listing the Top 10 Pools in the World on CNN.com.  Needless to say I was just dying to see it with my own eyes!  Despite it being a little bit hazy that afternoon, this pool simply did not disappoint. Our concierge graciously offered to take our picture once we were able to regain our composure :)

Eager to get to our room and change so that we could enjoy the pool as soon as possible, we were guided back indoors to our room.  As far as room options, many people will be happy to hear that there are only 50 rooms in the hotel.  It allows for a quaint, personal feel throughout your stay.  Never once did we feel like we were sharing our vacation with too many others.  As the Junior Suites, Suites and Exclusive Suites were too far out of our price range, we chose from the Double Room offerings.  Since both the Double Village and Double Superior rooms did not provide sea views, we decided to upgrade to the Double Delux Sea View room. We also had been mining Caruso's website and found a Buy 2 nights get 1 night free deal, which made the 3-night stay a little more reasonable to stomach financially.

Our Delux room gave us our own private balcony and a beautiful and spacious marble bathroom with whirlpool tub.  A wonderful touch was the dozen fresh red roses that greeted us inside.

Once back by the pool, we indulged in some lunch at the Poolside Restaurant and Bar.  Two glasses of Prosecco complemented the savory salad bar, which was filled with local delights...particularly seafood and cheeses.  We also shared a brick oven pizza.  Although I cannot find anything negative to say about our food and service, the price of EUR 130 gave us quite the shock. Although I do recognize that we were staying at a 5-star resort, I would nonetheless say this was still steep!  As I've gone back and read through a few more reviews, I think most people agree that the food prices are the biggest and perhaps only negative to this hotel.

With our stomachs full and wallets lighter, we soaked up the rest of the day's sun by the pool.

When we arrived back to our room, another complimentary surprised awaited us ... a bottle of prosecco!

As we settled in on our private balcony drinks in hand, we did decide, due to our pricey poolside lunch, to amend our strategy for the rest of our days there.  The plan was to stuff our tummies with the complimentary breakfast and not eat again until dinner! We would place our breakfast order on the outside of our door every night and the staff would promptly bring in our food at the time we specified.  Of course, we opted to dine on our balcony.  Each morning, I had to catch my breath at the view.  It hardy felt real.

Over the next few days, we took in every moment outdoors, including...

sunrises...

twilight...

more time at the Infinity Pool...

complimentary shuttle to Amalfi where a 2 hour boat ride awaits you (also complimentary)...

walking the gardens...

As you are probably gathering, this is one of the most stunning places I have ever seen in my travels!  I would highly recommend a trip to Ravello.  Although I can't imagine a trip to the Amalfi Coast could ever be classified as a bargain in general, I do believe you'll be able to find some lower cost options vs Hotel Caruso if so desired.  Rest assured, the entire town of Ravello is just lovely.

Final note from me...
As if all of this beauty wasn't enough, Dave went and topped off our time in Ravello with the world's most precious gift -- an engagement ring!  As I am now in the midst of wedding planning, it was really fantastic to revisit this spot where we got engaged.  I can't get over how lucky we are to have experienced this moment at Hotel Caruso :)

The Road to the Amalfi Coast

You ever feel in your bones that certain locales are literally beckoning you from afar, continually whispering all of the enticing things they have to offer into your subconscious?  If your answer is yes and you also find yourself jumping to answer these calls, then I'm afraid you officially have The Travel Affliction.

I've happily come to terms with the fact that I've got this bug.  My wallet may be lighter but, without it, I doubt Dave and I would have been able to say goodbye to our normal day-to-days for a full 2 week trip to glorious Italy this past fall.  After I'm finished reviewing the vacation in full, you'll see that this trip, in particular, will always have a tremendously special place in my heart.  As you may recall, Rome was up first.  After immersing ourselves in its vast history for a week, I really didn't think the trip could get much better.  Clearly, I was naive.  

On Day 7, we packed up our bags and headed over to Roma Termini Station to begin our journey to the highly renowned Amalfi Coast.  No one ever truly looooooves the actual act of traveling (except for maybe Daisy), so I wasn't giddy at the thought of the train - I was just eager to get there.  However, I was surprised by the ease of the train system between Roma Termini and Napoli Centrale.  There are simply a lot of options (always a good thing when on the road).  If you prefer the get-me-there-faster train option, you'll pay a bit more for it.  Having read that the slower, less expensive trains were overcrowded and had no assigned seats, we decided to go for the medium-speed train, either the IC or ICplus.  The journey took us about 1 hr and 45 minutes and cost us about $75 (after the conversion to USD) for the one-way fare for the 2 of us.

Once off the train, you have a few options to get to the towns within the Amalfi Coast.  I won't speak to renting a car yourself, because I would not recommend it.  

Courtesy of Rick Steves, whose books I read vigilantly before and throughout the trip

One option would be to take a taxi (although not generally recommended as they tend to gauge us poor, unsuspecting tourists).  Nonetheless, if you feel compelled to take a taxi, make sure it's a fix price.  For instance, when we eventually left the coast and headed back to Naples, we opted for a flat 90 Euro taxi that the hotel set up for us.  

If you're not intimidated by public transportation, a decent option is to take the Circumvesuviana commuter train.  The stop is in the basement of Centrale station.  Sorrento is the last stop on the line (note that you'll pass by Pompeii along the way).  Once you leave the Sorrento station, you'll see a series of SITA bus stops directly outside.  You can't miss these buses approaching, as they catch your eye with their bright blue color (although sometimes they are white/green).  Make sure to check the schedule ahead of time, and do pay attention to the F, H, G, S designations (which will tell you which run daily).

A few words of caution for you regarding the SITA buses:  

• You need your tickets before you board!  You can generally buy them at a nearby tabacchi shop.  Sorrento to Positano will cost you about 4 euro, while Amalfi will run about 8 euro.
• They tend to be really crowded in the high-season.  As long as you're early in Sorrento, I suspect you'd find a spot.  The trickier part is coming back to Sorrento from Amalfi and Positano.  For instance, if you get picked up at the 2nd stop in Positano, a lot of passengers have already loaded in from Amalfi and the 1st Positano stop.  Thus, you may find that the bus is completely full.  Make sure to have a Plan B!
• If you're not known for your speed & strength, just be prepared that you will be expected to load your suitcases in the undercarriage of the bus and jump on the bus quickly. 
• The buses often times run ahead of schedule and do not wait.  Make sure to get there early!

Another option would be to take a ferry from Naples to (i) Sorrento or to (ii) the island of Capri.  If you opt for the Sorrento ferry route, then you could continue your journey by hopping on the SITA bus as I described above.  If you go for the ferry to Capri, there are ferries from Capri's main port to Positano and Amalfi multiple times a day (even in the low season which starts at the end of Sept).

Our transportation choice from Naples was a private driver, an upgrade option offered by our hotel. After navigating substantial pedestrian and auto traffic within Naples and then traveling about an hour south, we got closer to Sorrento, the official "start" of the Amalfi Coast.  At first, I thought the quickening of my heartbeat was a result of pure excitement over the views, but then I quickly realized that I was also in slight panic mode.  Why you might ask? The roads were insane.  Picture a narrow one-way road in the U.S.  Then picture that same road being opened to two-way traffic, primarily dominated by large buses.  Then add in extreme curves overlooking sheer vertical cliffs into the Mediterranean.  Thankfully, these locals are pros and they maneuver their vehicles almost with ease, certainly without breaking into a cold sweat like me :P

After passing through the equally if not more beautiful panoramic views of Positano and Amalfi, it was all "up" from there on out.  Beautiful Ravello was our first destination, serenely perched up above Amalfi at a cool ~1,200 ft above sea level (abbreviated as "Rav." in Rick Steve's earlier map).

When we pulled up to Hotel Caruso at what seemed like the highest point in Ravello, my excitement level was off the charts.  This was a splurge hotel for us (justified by the fact that I was able to use miles for our airfare).  To describe our time here as anything more than a dream would be an understatement, but I will attempt to give you all the specific details in my next Amalfi Coast post ...

My Attempt at an "Intro" to Rome

Although I haven't blogged about it yet, I just got back from the self-proclaimed "historic" Charlotte, North Carolina.  I won't deny lovely Charlotte its "historic" title per US standards, but I can only chuckle at how infinitesimally small it's history is compared to another city Dave and I just visited: Rome, Italy.  It was our first time out of the country together since our trip to Ireland in 2007, and we couldn't have been more thrilled to spend our first week exploring the ancient city.

Timeframe: We had been warned that you need to take Rome in stride by avoiding burying yourself with a laundry list of "must-do's" during your visit.  That advice could not have been more spot-on.  If you are operating within a "typical" vacation timeframe (i.e. 1 week or less), there is just TOO much to see in Rome.  Period.  My suggestion is to read about the city as much as possible before you head out (try Rick Steves for instance) and make a priority list of places to visit.  You don't want to get too hung up on seeing every possible place mentioned, because (a) you'll be too rushed to appreciate the beauty/history of what you do make it to see and (b) you'll have trouble immersing yourself in what makes Italy truly great: sumptuous, multi-course meals and leisurely, gelato-filled strolls!

Flight options: If you're flying from the US, you'll be headed to Leonardo da Vinci-Fiumicino Airport (FCO).  If you are traveling from an European city, you might be able to find a flight to Rome's less congested Ciampino Airport (CIA).  For instance, discount carriers Ryanair and easyJet both fly to CIA.  Nonetheless, most of us will find ourselves at FCO, which means you've got to make some plans on how you want to get to the city center.  We enjoyed taking the "Leonardo Express" train directly to Rome's Termini train station.  It leaves every 30 minutes and costs EUR15.  If you wanted to make a reservation in advance, you could also arrange for a shuttle to your hotel.  Lastly, you could take a Rome city taxi, which would probably take you about 45 minutes and will cost you an even EUR 45.

Hotel options: My best advice is to get on TripAdvisor and read, read and read some more.  You obviously have to balance your desire to be in a certain neighborhood with what you can afford.  However, I would suggest that you try to stay within East Rome if you can help it.  This would mean you'd be north of "ancient" Rome (i.e. Roman Forum, Colosseum, etc.), east of the Tiber River, west of Termini Station and south of the Borghese Gardens.  East Rome may look like a big area on the map, but, as long as you've packed comfy shoes, you should be able to walk or take short, inexpensive taxis to everywhere you'd like to visit.  We chose to stay at a fairly reasonably priced 4-star hotel on Via Nazionale, Hotel Artemide.  We were quite pleased with it for a number of reasons (e.g., size and cleanliness of the room, quality of the bathroom amenities, good air conditioning, flat screen tv, etc).  It also has a lovely rooftop restaurant and bar that overlooks the city.

Must-sees: I can't cover this topic in the detail that it deserves solely in my intro post, but I'll go ahead and tell you in summary form what I wouldn't miss.

• Vatican Museum:  How could you pass up the papal palace lined with the masterpieces of Michelangelo and Raphael?  The answer is you cant.  Buy your ticket in advance online but still be prepared for intense crowds.  It is all worth it once you set eyes on the Sistine Chapel.

• St Peter's Basilica: Neighbors with the Vatican Museum, this is the grandest, most significant church in the Christian world.  You can visit the chapel and crypt for free, but the view from the top of the dome is worth the EUR5-7 cost.

• Colosseum: Home to the notoriously gruesome gladiator battles, don't miss this truly unbelievable structure.  A clear architectural wonder, especially considering it's 80 A.D. construction.

• Roman Forum (& Palantine Hill): Ruins of the center of the ancient city.  Imagine the commerce, politics and religion that took center stage in these ruins.  Don't miss the Arch of Titus that marked the old entrance to the city on the Via Sacra, as well as the large Senate House.  You can also find the ashes of Julius Caesar as well.

• Borghese Gallery & Surrounding Gardens: Former Cardinal Scipione Borghese's villa, used to showcase the fine art of his age.  Many precious Bernini sculptures are contained within its walls.  

• Pantheon: Dedicated to all gods, it is the most well-preserved monument in the city.  Inside you can find the tomb of Raphael as well as the tombs of the country's 1st two kings.

• Spanish Steps: Named for the Spanish Embassy, it is a hangout spot for many (particularly a popular night-time hot spot).

• Trevi Fountain: A Baroque fountain completed in 1762 by Nicola Salvi, which brings an "Ocean" scene to life.  Particularly gorgeous at night.

• Night walks through Campo de' Fiori and Piazza Navona: Bustling plazas with outdoor wining & dining ideal for people watching.  Bernini fountains to top off the experience.

Restaurants:  You really have to overtly try NOT to have a good meal in this city.  There's essenitally just one rule... steer clear of restaurants that are directly outside of main tourist attractions.  You know you're in a tourist trap when you see blatant advertisements of menus in multiple languages.  There will also be asterisks next to a lot of antipasto and entree options, which is a signal that the food is frozen and will only be heated up.  If you can manage to stay away from these places, you will not be disappointed!  I would specifically recommend walking southwest and across the river to the Trastevere neighborhood for dinner one night.  It has a really unique feel and is overrun with highly praised trattorias.

For those of you itching to go to Rome, I hope this was a decent introduction to what you might expect.  There will be more to come from me, which will cover the must-sees in much more detail.

My last recommendation is a fun, superstitious one:  don't forget to throw a coin over your shoulder into the Trevi Fountain!  If the legend is true, it will ensure your safe return to Rome.